It seems that New Zealand has a way of inspiring me to write. It’s not that I don’t have anything to write about in Australia, or that I don’t like Australia (that’s absolutely not the case — I love it here and was very excited to get my permanent residency in June). There was just something about my weekend in Windy Welly that gave me the urge to really get back into blogging again.
I couldn’t help but have a huge smile on my face as my plane touched down in Wellington, more than 3.5 years after my three month adventure in 2008. I knew that I was only there for a long weekend, but it was a long weekend of watching rugby in what is arguably the rugby capital of the world. Sounds pretty good to me!
Immigration certainly didn’t do anything to wipe the smile away. I know immigration is usually not synonymous with “happiness,” but it was for me when I made a happy discovery. After the immigration agent laughingly tried to convince me to cheer for the All Blacks over the Wallabies (unlikely), she stamped my passport with an unfamiliar stamp — one that did not match the three previous visitor’s stamps that New Zealand had issued me with. As I wandered towards the airport exit, I peered closer and found that I had been given a resident’s visa with the description “holder may stay indefinitely.” I had no idea that Australian residents are accepted as New Zealand residents — I thought you had to get citizenship first! I know it won’t affect me in the short term, as I am firmly entrenched in Brisbane at the moment, but I just loved that I was issued permanent residency without even trying after all the effort it had taken to get in Australia!
World Cup fever was in evidence as soon as I got into the shuttle that would take me to my hotel. Flags hung all over the van, representing all 20 countries participating in the Cup. American and Aussie accents abounded in the van, and when we arrived at the Cambridge Hotel (my ‘old faithful’ hostel that I’ve stayed in many times in Wellington), all of their balconies were draped with flags as well. Just down the road a huge sign covered the side of a hotel, imploring the Kiwis to party like it was 1987 (the last time they won the World Cup).
Before going to NZ, I was in a bit of a quandary. Did I cheer for the US even though I knew nothing about the team, or cheer for the Wallabies because I’d followed Super Rugby and the Tri-Nations before the World Cup? I was considering a compromise where I wore red, white & blue with a Wallabies jersey, but in the end I decided to go all out American. After all, as Bobbi (who is currently working in Wellington) said, how often do I really get to cheer for the homeland anymore anyway? So, with this decided, I settled on white pants and the only piece of US-flag emblazoned clothing I own, a US Davis Cup shirt, and headed into Wellington.
And what a sight the people of Wellington were! There were clearly a lot of Aussies that had jumped across the Tasman for the match…and even some Americans that lived in Australia, by the look of a couple that had cut Wallabies & Eagles jerseys in half and sewn them together. Some had faces painted green and gold; others were swathed in giant American flags. Despite the rivalry, everyone was having a great time. I didn’t feel any of the resentment towards Americans that I have grown used to seeing whenever people are being obnoxiously American (ie, what everyone in Wellington was doing that day, at least visually). People wished each other luck at the game and had a laugh at jokes that were at their country’s expense. Cars emblazoned with American flags on their bonnet honked the entire way around the road and people chased them chanting “U-S-A! U-S-A!”
The best way to describe it all was festive. Honestly, the last time I felt an atmosphere like this was on Orchard Rd just before Christmas. Everyone was celebrating and putting aside their differences for just a day, and it was great. But I had a bit of a problem — for once, I just wasn’t American enough! Surprisingly, there was more American clothing in Wellington than I could find in 2 weeks in Texas — for some reason, they didn’t seem to be interested in the rugby — but I really didn’t want to spend $150 on a jersey from one of the many sports stores hawking official gear. Then I stumbled across my biggest find in Wellington, a little store in a side alley off of Cuba St called “Verboom.” Not only were they advertising free “I <3 Wellington” badges for any Rugby World Cup visitors, but they made custom shirts as well. The one advertised was specially made for anti-Aussie supporters (ie, all Kiwis) and had “Ireland 15, Australia 6” emblazoned across it.
It turned out that I had stumbled across exactly what I was looking for. The shop owner greeted me and asked me about the rugby, and as soon as he heard my accent, he started excitedly telling me about the shirts his friends and he had come up with for the game that night. Apparently all of them were going all-out American for the game and had come up with some slogans for their group. As soon as he showed me the sheet of designs, I practically begged him to let me buy one off him. Of course, owning a shop based almost entirely around selling custom shirts, he was very happy to. So this was how, an hour later, I came to be wearing this shirt:
It was exactly what I wanted–an out-of-the-ordinary way to show my support–and it was well worth every penny, especially for the people it led me to meet. But that is a tale in itself, and best saved for another post. In the meantime, suffice it to say that I can’t imagine a more welcoming environment for a major sporting event, or in general really. I’ve always loved the friendliness of the Kiwi people, and both they and all of the visitors took it to a new level for the Cup games in Wellington.
Posted: October 11th, 2011 at 8:02 pm.
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